Traditional metal key (pre-PASSKEY)
Older Chevrolet models used a plain mechanical key with no chip. A cut-only duplicate from a hardware kiosk will turn the ignition and open the doors, since there's no immobilizer to satisfy.
Cut, programmed and tested at your car. Most models, most years.
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Older Chevrolet models used a plain mechanical key with no chip. A cut-only duplicate from a hardware kiosk will turn the ignition and open the doors, since there's no immobilizer to satisfy.
Many Chevrolets through the 1990s-2000s used a VATS-style pellet embedded in the key blade with a specific resistance value. If the resistance doesn't match what the module expects, the starter is disabled even though the key turns the lock.
A glass transponder chip inside the plastic head communicates with the ignition lock cylinder. A blank cut to match the mechanical bitting won't start the car until the chip is cloned or a new key is programmed into the vehicle's immobilizer memory.
Common on 2010s Malibu, Equinox, and Camaro. Combines a transponder-equipped mechanical blade with remote buttons for locks; both the cut and the chip data have to be correct, and the remote portion typically needs separate programming to work with the doors.
Used on newer Silverado, Tahoe, Traverse, and Suburban trims. The fob communicates over RF and stays in a pocket or bag; a hidden mechanical blade inside the fob is only for the door lock, and the vehicle won't start without the fob's rolling-code signal being recognized by the body control module.
A plain metal blade, a transponder chip, a remote and a proximity fob are four different jobs.
Newer immobilizer generations take extra steps — and on the newest systems, extra authorization.
Copying a working key is the small version of the job; starting from zero keys is the big one.
Secure garages, gated lots and after-midnight calls can change the trip, never the honesty of the quote.
Chevrolet's PASSKEY system has gone through several generations, and the vintage matters a lot for how a lockout gets resolved. Early PASSKEY and PASSKEY II (roughly 1990s through mid-2000s) rely on a resistor pellet in the key blade — the anti-theft module reads a resistance value, and a mismatch kills the starter circuit for several minutes even if the ignition turns. PASSKEY III moved to a transponder chip, still requiring the correct data to be present for the module to release the starter. On modern Silverado, Equinox, Tahoe, and Traverse models, security is handled through the body control module and a rolling-code proximity system, where cloning or adding a key usually means enrolling it through the vehicle's onboard programming sequence rather than dealing with a resistor value.
Losing every Chevrolet key at once is a harder job than a duplicate, and how hard depends on the generation. On PASSKEY/PASSKEY II vehicles, the anti-theft system enters a lockout timer (often around 10 minutes) after a bad start attempt, and a new key has to be created and matched to the resistance value the module expects — doable in the field with the right equipment, but slower than a normal cut. On PASSKEY III and later transponder or proximity-key vehicles, an all-keys-lost situation on many Chevrolets can require reading security data directly from the vehicle's module, and on certain model years that process is locked to dealer-level access or requires specialized bidirectional programming tools that not every mobile locksmith carries. A good locksmith will check the VIN and module type before quoting a timeline, since some jobs genuinely need a tow to the dealer while others can be done curbside.
In most cases yes. With one working key, a mobile locksmith can typically read the vehicle's security data and cut and program a spare on-site, without needing a tow to the dealer.
Older Chevrolets with PASSKEY or PASSKEY II use a resistor pellet in the key blade that the anti-theft module checks before allowing the starter to engage. A duplicate cut to the right shape but without the matching resistance value will turn the lock but leave the starter disabled.
This is an all-keys-lost situation, and it takes longer than a normal duplicate. A locksmith needs to verify ownership, then either program a new key using the vehicle's onboard security data or, on some newer model years, use specialized tools — a few cases genuinely require dealer-level access.
No. Proximity smart keys on models like the Tahoe or Traverse communicate over radio frequency with the body control module, so the fob just needs to be inside the vehicle for the push-button start to work.
Often yes — the mechanical blade and the remote electronics are separate systems, so a working blade can sometimes be paired with a replacement remote shell or a reprogrammed fob rather than replacing the whole key.
Roughly, if the key has to be inserted and turned, it's likely an older PASSKEY or transponder system; if there's a push-button start and the key stays in a pocket, it's a proximity smart key. A locksmith can confirm exactly which system is on a given VIN before quoting the job.