Cut, programmed and tested at your car. Most models, most years.
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Mechanical key with an embedded resistor pellet the ignition lock reads electronically. Cutting alone will not start the car — the pellet's resistor value has to match what the body control module expects, so these need to be cut and electronically matched, not just cut.
Standard transponder chip in a plastic head or flip-key shell. Needs cutting to the lock plus programming to the vehicle; a cut-only blank will turn the ignition mechanically but won't let the engine start.
Keyless-entry fob read by a body control module over the shared GM platform's remote-frequency and BCM protocol; typically needs a mix of dealer-level and aftermarket programming tools depending on model year, and some model years are more locked down than others.
Companion fob for models that pair a physical key or blade with a separate remote; cloning or replacing usually needs the remote synced separately from the ignition key itself.
A plain metal blade, a transponder chip, a remote and a proximity fob are four different jobs.
Newer immobilizer generations take extra steps — and on the newest systems, extra authorization.
Copying a working key is the small version of the job; starting from zero keys is the big one.
Secure garages, gated lots and after-midnight calls can change the trip, never the honesty of the quote.
GM's immobilizer setup on these platforms (PassKey resistor pellets on older models, then transponder and later BCM-paired proximity systems) requires whatever new key is cut or supplied to also be electronically matched to the vehicle's module before the engine will start. A mechanically correct cut is not enough on its own. Programming method and tool requirements vary by model year and trim, so it's worth confirming the exact year with whoever is dispatched before assuming a straightforward in-and-out job.
An all-keys-lost GMC job is more involved than a lost-one-of-two situation because there's no working key or fob left to read the vehicle's existing key data from. On the older PassKey-pellet platforms and many transponder-era models, a competent locksmith with the right programmer can often handle this on-site. On newer proximity/push-button models, some model years lock out non-dealer programming entirely or require a tow to a dealership or a locksmith with dealer-level access — confirm this by year/trim before assuming a mobile fix is possible.
Often yes, depending on the model year — but all-keys-lost jobs need the vehicle's identity confirmed (registration/ID) and the right programming equipment for that platform. Older PassKey and early transponder models are usually straightforward for a mobile locksmith; some newer proximity-key model years restrict programming to dealer-level tools, so it's worth asking upfront which category a specific Sierra, Terrain, Acadia, Yukon, or Canyon falls into.
That's the classic sign of an unmatched immobilizer key — the cut is correct but the vehicle's module hasn't been told to accept that key's chip or resistor pellet. Cutting and programming are two separate steps on these platforms.
It depends on the model year and how GM has configured that generation's security gateway. Some years are fully programmable with aftermarket tools a mobile locksmith carries; others require dealer-level access. Confirming the exact trim and year before scheduling avoids a wasted trip.
No. PassKey uses a mechanical resistor pellet embedded in the key blade that the ignition lock reads electronically, while later transponder keys use an RFID chip. They're different technologies and need different equipment to cut and match.
Turnaround depends on the model year, how far out the tow or mobile unit is, and whether the job needs dealer-level programming. A realistic ETA is something to ask for at the time of the call rather than assume from a general estimate.