Traditional metal key (older MDX/TSX/RSX-era)
Basic cut key, no transponder or an early fixed-code transponder. Cutting is usually straightforward; older chip protocols are less common now on the road but still show up on high-mileage cars.
Cut, programmed and tested at your car. Most models, most years.
See services & pricingWhere’s the car?
Basic cut key, no transponder or an early fixed-code transponder. Cutting is usually straightforward; older chip protocols are less common now on the road but still show up on high-mileage cars.
Cut key with an embedded chip that must be programmed to the immobilizer separately from cutting. A shop needs both a cutting machine and the right programming tool for this generation.
Push-button start, key stays in pocket. Programming smart keys generally needs OBD-II access and, on a number of trims, a PIN or dealer-level security handshake — not every independent locksmith tool covers every model year the same way.
Some late-model trims lean on phone-based access alongside a physical key. Aftermarket support for these is newer and more limited; confirming compatibility before a truck rolls saves a wasted trip.
A plain metal blade, a transponder chip, a remote and a proximity fob are four different jobs.
Newer immobilizer generations take extra steps — and on the newest systems, extra authorization.
Copying a working key is the small version of the job; starting from zero keys is the big one.
Secure garages, gated lots and after-midnight calls can change the trip, never the honesty of the quote.
Acura shares Honda's immobilizer architecture across most of the lineup, so tooling that covers Honda often covers Acura too — but Acura trims sometimes carry a slightly different security layer or PIN requirement than the Honda equivalent, especially on RDX/MDX and newer TLX/Integra years. A locksmith should confirm the exact model year and trim before quoting a job, since immobilizer variants differ enough within the same nameplate to change what's needed on site.
All-keys-lost on an Acura is usually solvable by a mobile locksmith with the right key-programming tool and OBD-II access, but it depends heavily on year and trim. Some newer smart-key systems or higher security variants require a PIN/security code that only comes from the dealer or a code service, which can add time or mean a referral out. An honest locksmith will check the VIN and confirm tool coverage before promising an on-site fix, rather than guessing over the phone.
Often yes, but it depends on the model year and key system. Smart-key Acuras and some AKL situations need a security PIN that may only come from the dealer, so a locksmith should check the VIN first rather than promise a same-day fix sight unseen.
Almost always. Any Acura from the transponder era onward needs the new key programmed to the immobilizer, not just cut to shape. A key that's only cut mechanically won't start the car.
Not necessarily — many independent mobile locksmiths carry tools that cover Honda/Acura immobilizer systems. But certain years, trims, or all-keys-lost cases do require dealer-level access or a security code, so it's worth asking upfront.
Cost varies by key type (basic transponder vs smart key vs phone-as-key trims) and by whether it's a duplicate or an all-keys-lost job. Get a quote based on the specific VIN and situation rather than a generic number.
Acura shares much of Honda's underlying immobilizer platform, but some Acura trims add an extra security layer or PIN step. A locksmith familiar with Honda isn't automatically guaranteed to have full Acura coverage on every year.
Sometimes a fob issue is a battery or reprogramming fix rather than a full replacement — worth having it checked before ordering a new key outright.